Upon transitioning to easier hiking terrain it is sometimes useful for easing progress and managing the chain of protection to shorten the rope between climbers. This need can rapidly change, however. It is typical during progress through rugged rock terrain in the mountains. For a while you’re climbing along a face, then after surmounting it you advance on foot to a wide lateral ledge under another face, and so forth. Here it can be useful in certain moments to shorten the rope and at the same time leave the original connection for use of the entire length of the rope. Here a method of tying the rope wrapped around the torso is used. As soon as the climbers arrive in easy terrain, one of them will coil the rope around the torso over the shoulder, and once the rope is shortened to the necessary length, she will tie in to the rope again. The options of what knots to use are extensive; below we mention one of the methods which is fairly easy to remember. When using any method of tying in to a rope shortened by coiling around the shoulder, special attention must be paid to the length of the coil of rope. The lower curve of the coil should ideally reach the waistbelt of the harness.
Continued in the book >>
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